The New York Times

The Restaurant List: 50 Places in America We’re Most Excited About Right Now

Sean Brock brings every bit of his culinary, intellectual and history-loving self to this restaurant, which was named for his grandmother and is dedicated to interpreting and honoring Appalachian food. What does that look like? Some dishes come from a Noma-like lab where, for example, he extracts the essence of the dried snap beans called leather britches and turns it into a demi-glace, which he uses to slick a succotash built from nixtamalized hominy and a pickled version of the same bean. An ember-roasted lion’s-mane mushroom crowns the dish. Mr. Brock’s hand has touched every part of the restaurant, from the rare collection of outsider art on the walls to the meditation room for staff upstairs. — KIM SEVERSON

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